In this chapter, you will learn the following:
- the steps required to develop a sketch into a prototype garment and to prepare the garment for design team review
- the advantages and disadvantages of using a computer pattern design system for patternmaking
- reasons why a style might be eliminated from the line during the review process
- style factors that influence the estimated cost of a new garment style
- the relationships among traditional design development processes and private-label and store brand product development
A large part of the development process is preparing the paperwork. Developers or tech's work on pre-cost sheets and try to estimate what the factory may charge for the style as a first check to make sure the fabric is affordable. Under documents there are two cost sheets. One is html so you can click and look at it. The other is a downloadable Excel file. It is self-calculating, so you can adjust the data and see how it effects your margin.
The tech pack is the main tool of communication for having a factory or sample room create a prototype. The tech pack usually has designer sketches and detail sketches attached to it. There is an example of a complete tech pack (including the graded specs) for a band/cup size bra under documents. This was sent to myself and my client by the factory who produces this bra for Moving Comfort. Note on page 1 the confidentiality clause that they obviously did not read. This bra has been in the market place for several years.